百円ショップ (Hyaku-en shoppu)

Thursday 31 October 2013 0 comments

Simply: a shop where everything costs Y100 – well, actually it’s Y105, the price in the name doesn’t include the 5% VAT, but it does sound more catchy this way.
It’s neither a new thing nor one limited to Japan only. There are Poundlands in the UK, €1 shops in Germany (and other countries in the Euro zone, I guess), “all costs X zloty” in Poland – hyaku-en shoppu are just the Japanese equivalent. And yet I get an impression that you can always tell something about the country, the nation and its habits by exploring such shops. To me Poundlands in the UK seem a lot about food – yeah, you can get pretty much anything there, almost like in a supermarket, simply cheaper for all sorts of reasons, but the food section does seem a little bigger to me. The Polish “all costs X zloty” (it used to be 4 or 5, but got a bit more expensive even before I moved to the UK, and I’ve no idea how much is it now) always looked to be like the cheap kitsch dens, serving mainly as places where you could get a cheap, somewhat crappy gift – or something for yourself if you happen to like this sort of cheap stuff, cheap both in price and its look. So how does it look like in Japan?

http://www.canalcity.co.jp/shop/detail.php?id=451

It’s a bit hard to tell at first. There’s plenty of hyaku-en shoppu in all sizes in Japan, and among them the biggest is the chain shop Daiso. You can probably literally get anything at Daiso – so far I’ve not managed to leave it without buying at least five things. This way, other than things I actually needed, like baking paper or notebooks, I am richer by a small baking tray (just big enough for my toaster oven), a small hand mixer, an apron or cute face towel.


Of course, Daiso’s offer doesn’t stop there. Everything from the kitchen, household decorations or DIY stuff, through to stationery or make-up, all the way to food and seasonal things (they just changed the Halloween items to Christmas ones, even though Christmas isn’t a big holiday in Japan). Maybe it’s different in other Daiso stores, but in the one that I am frequenting there isn’t anything that’d stand out in any particular way, maybe except for the little fact that even the things you’d least expect can be cute and kawaii, but that’s probably a reflection of a general tendency of the Japanese who do like all that is kawaii.
The longer I think about it, the more I think that in Japan the need for hyaku-en shoppu comes from the fact that it still is quite an expensive place to live in – and after all an everyday man has to eat out of something, write their homework somewhere or clean their ear with something too, so why not save a little while getting all this? They’re spending enough on a flat or bills as it is already.
At the same time tere is something in hyaku-en shoppu of the everyday convenience in that the Japanese are so used to. Everything is benri (便利), meaning convenient: reliable public transport and the trains that you can tune your watches according to; vending machines everywhere which even tell you where you are if you can only read Japanese; bags for umbrellas put by the entrance to libraries/restaurants/shopping centres/schools/anywhere on rainy days so that the water won’t drip on the floor, making it dirty and/or slippery, one could probably go on for quite a while. And hyaku-en shoppu seem to reflect that, after all not only they’re cheap, but you can get so many things from one place only. In the UK it’s not uncommon to buy a pot or some plates in a supermarket, if you need to – but I’ve not seen that here (there is a chance that my local Aeon is simply too small for something like that, but I do doubt that). Whereas you can go to Daiso and leave with the pot (a small one, yes, it’s only Y105 after all), a washing liquid to clean the pot with and something to put in the pot to eat later on. Benri!

The old and the new

Monday 28 October 2013 0 comments

After quite a wet last week it’d be a crime not to take advantage of the gorgeous weather we had today: maybe a tad too windy, but sunny, clear skies and warm (I think it was around 16°C at its highest today). So after the one period of class that I had, I looked at my tourist map of Kanazawa, thought for a moment and then took off.
I decided to first visit one of the geisha districts, Higashi Chaya-machi (東茶屋街), which literally means the Eastern Tea-house district – though it has to be noted that in this case ‘tea-house’, that is chaya, is an euphemism, as it does not indicate a place where people drink tea, but a place where geisha meet their clients. There are three, still working!, geisha districts in Kanazawa: the Higashi, which I already mentioned, Nishi (西茶屋街) that is the Western, and Kazue-machi (主計町茶屋街) that is the geisha district in the Kazue district, the paymaster or accountant district. I’m not sure, but I think that out of these three Higashi is the oldest; it certainly is the biggest, though my guide claims that Nishi has the most geisha working there. Though let it be clear: spotting a geisha is not a piece of cake even with three geisha districts. Though nowadays they do rely more on the tourism industry and generally on being a tourist attraction and remnants of the times past than on their private donor, one has to go to quite some lengths to spot one, at the very least know where and when to be (that is mainly in the evenings or at nights, not during the day) – or has to be a fairly well earning/just rich tourist who can afford to eat at the luxurious traditional Japanese restaurants, which offer performances by real geisha. But all in its time, I will see a Kanazawa geisha sooner or later.
Anywho, that’s where I headed first. Even before you see the most famous street of Higashi Chaya-machi, you know that you’re there because of the smell of incense that’s in the air. With such a prelude the view ahead was even more enchanting – it could seem like very little, the street between rows of traditional, and thus simple, Japanese houses one by one is relatively plain (as in not decorated), but there is beauty in this simplicity and you certainly feel like having travelled in time (well, you would were it not for the other tourists who were dressed in modern clothes and were also clicking with their cameras). But what surprised me the most was that despite a few of these houses being turned into museums, shops or actual tea houses, the other ones were… well, lived in. It may not be obvious at first, especially when one’s blinded by the feudal Japan style charm, but you just need to look: a post box, traditional door which in fact is hiding a garage with a car parked in there, names or house numbers by the door… I don’t dare to think how much it costs to live there – properties in Japan are expensive as it is, nevermind living in a historical geisha district that’s an official cultural asset!

The most famous street in Higashi Chaya-machi.


Antique shop, sign 1.

Antique shop, sign 2.


In front of one of the tea houses (the proper ones).



Against expectations, if one is not interested in „geisha hunting”, you can walk through and see the most interesting parts of Higashi Chaya-machi in quite a short period of time. Fortunately just outside of it there is a fairly large temple area. I’m saving proper sightseeing there for some later time, after all it’s some fifty four temples, bigger and smaller, on a road leading mainly uphill (which I know thanks to the order-keeping man at the Utasu temple [who had too many leaflets to be a policeman, but for parking security there wasn’t really enough parking there – nor need for its security] who explained it a little to me and gave me a few leaflets and maps). Nevertheless, I did visit a few: first the tiny Sugawara (菅原神社), then the already mentioned Utasu (宇多須神社), then a quick walk uphill to a spot overlooking the city, and finally to a very teeny-tiny temple that seemed like someone’s house at first, Enchō (円長寺). And let me tell you, I definitely prefer the smaller and slightly more outsider-ish temples than the big ones that attract all sorts of tourists from almost everywhere in the world. The ones I visited today had a more temple-y atmosphere, they were serene in the way that encourages deep thoughts or praying, or just relaxing.

Sugawara-jinja seen from the street.

Sugawara-jinja.

Utasu-jinja.

Utasu-jinja.

Figurines in the Utasu-jinja garden (unfortunately, I only recognise Buddha on the left and they had no sign or anything).

Wishes to the gods left on the tree in the Utasu-jinja garden.

Utasu-jinja dragon.

View of Kanazawa from (slightly) above.

Enchō-ji seen from the street.

Seeing all that took a lot less time than I anticipated, so in order not to waste the day, and also for a bit of a change, I travelled the relatively short distance from Higashi Chaya-machi to Katamachi (片町). You could not have a bigger difference between these two: while the former is calm and has the atmosphere of century-old history surrounding you, a visit to Katamachi is a jump into the modern era, the busy and loud lifestyle. In other words: if you want to do some shopping or have fun in Kanazawa, you’ll be heading to Katamachi! Though you can see it at its best only at night, when neons flash everywhere and there’s people going to/from clubs, izakayas, karaoke bars, internet cafes, game arcades, the so called maid cafes and what have you – you can’t really experience that during the day, especially not on a Monday afternoon. But to me, a proper city rat, it was just as good, even though I think being surrounded by greenery (green really does calm down) and with a more refreshing mountain air is doing me lots of good, in my heart I know that I’ll never get sick of being in the city and the feeling that the entire world is at your hand, that you can do anything you please, you just need to make the choice.


A paradise on Earth for some: floors full of manga, anime and maid cafe (cafe where the waitresses are dressed in French maid outfits).

Display of the lolita subculture clothes shop (unfortunately, pictures inside weren't allowed).





Lights on trees at the Kōrinbō (香林坊) bus stop.



Saturday rally

Sunday 27 October 2013 0 comments

When my new Japanese foster family invited me on a hiking trip, chich was supposed to end in an onsen (温泉, hot springs) and an alcohol including dinner, I said “yes” straightaway. I may not be a massive fan of hiking as a sport, but I kind of like walking, and if we add a goal to this walking, especially as nice a goal as food and onsen, could I really refuse?
As it turned out at the meeting point – and which was totally to be expected – I was the only non-Japanese face in the whole group. Not that I’m complaining, I totally get that when you’re so visibly different, people will stare at you, the same stuff happens in Poland where I come from, and as the Japanese managed to learn how to do the staring slightly more discreetly, I really don’t feel like I have a reason to complain. Besides, the kids were probably the most moved by my participation (again, totally normal thing) and most of them soon started to play among each other anyway, with the exception of one 8-year-old girl who was just curious enough to come up to me and start a conversation. And at the end of the day this situation forced me to use Japanese only, which, after all, is what I’m here for, right?
The trip was about 10 kilometres (approx. 6 miles). For people with kids, the elderly or simply somewhat unfit people there was a stop about half-way through, and from there people could choose to bus-ride the rest of the journey. If I remember correctly, there was only one mother of two who did that, all the rest bravely marched on up and down the hills. Below is a map of the trip that we were given, I hope you can see it clearly. If not: start’s at the top.


Although the 10km was not massively difficult to walk, especially at the reasonable pace that we were going at, an onsen is definitely a lot better after some physical activities than just like that. Because everyone bathes in there naked (and, of course, men and women are in separate baths), the picture is from the Internet, but I do think that it does reflect just how gorgeous the place was. Simply soaking in hot water and feeling how all the aches disappear is a great feeling, but to have a view of the nature and the hum of a waterfall to that – ultimate relaxation guaranteed!

Lobby.
Travel.Rakuten.co.jp

Onsen.
KanazawaRyokanHotel.com


Then there was time for the aforementioned dinner. As I was told by my foster parents  and by some of the other Japanese who were with us, we were in for a truly luxurious Japanese-style experience, that is very traditional food served by ladies in kimonos and eating while seated on the floor. (Let me add that we were given some backrests and I wasn’t the only one who did not sit in the true Japanese style, I’ve seen people sitting cross-legged, with their knees up to their chests, whatever was comfortable).
We definitely knew it’d be luxurious once we saw the menu. The entire meal was made up of twelve courses. Yes, twelve. Sure, they weren’t big servings, and personally I didn’t like everything, though I sure tried everything first before making up my mind, but even then I came back home full. And even I have to admit that everything was of superb quality.
With so many courses I think only the most hardcore Instagrammers would take pictures of everything – I was too hungry to even think of photographing even a few dishes. Bu the hotel’s website (because both the onsen and the mal were at a hotel) came to resque and although what we ate was different to the stuff pictured, you can get a good sense of how it was presented and what were the quantities.

Takitei.co.jp

Probably the most peculiar thing that ended up on my plate was momiji cheese, cut into the shape of a maple leaf. I am not entirely sure whether that taste was actually maple leaves, or if it was some sort of food colouring that wasn’t entirely tasteless, but knowing the Japanese and that they do make food out of momiji, I think it was the former. In either case it definitely tasted like cheese, just with a subtle, slightly sweet hint of something else.

Momiji cheese.
Abekama.co.jp

But my new favourite dish was dobin mushi (土瓶蒸し), an autumn soup served in tiny pots and heating right in front of us; the main ingredients there were mushrooms and hamo fish (), conger eel for us, and before eating it was seasoned with freshly squeezed lime juice. I tell you, it was absolutely divine! The lime and the mushroomy-fishy tastes complimented each other perfectly, the soup quickly warmed me from the inside, and all that without leaving an overpowering fish aftertaste in your mouth. And hamo itself was really to my taste, a delicate white fish that melted in my mouth. I hope that despite warnings that it was really luxury food I will manage to find it somewhere once again, preferably in a bigger pot.

Dobin mushi.
nori18leo.cocolog-nifty.com

And after that we were driven home in a bus – the bus driver was even kind enough to drop me off right in front of my dorm, so I didn’t have to walk in the rain. But to avoid finishing this post with “and then I went to bed”, let me share a rather peculiar advertisement for the upcoming university festival (which, from what I gather, will be a lot like Freshers’ Fair/Week):


Open? // Come to the Kanazawa University Festival!
I do not see how that advert would pass anywhere in Europe!

A few weekend adventures

Monday 21 October 2013 0 comments

With a slight delay, as it took me a little while to get my strength back after the trip we took over Thursday and Friday, but I’ll shortly describe what was most interesting there. All of us Nikken students went to the city of Suzu, 珠洲, in the Noto area, 能登. It’s worth noting that Suzu is a city only from the administrative point of view – both in views and in the atmosphere it was full on countryside or inaka, 田舎, as they call it in Japanese. Unfortunately, for most of the time my camera was in my bag, which in turn was in the coach, so I’ve not been able to take the pictures of the most gorgeous views, though I do have something.
Twilight by the shore where we were fishing.

Sea by the former primary school.

Just behind the forest.

A field just by the forest.

There weren’t many adventures on the trip itself, its main purpose was to teach us about the state of local environment, especially seaside and mountains, and of the countryside communities (which, probably just like in most places, gets older and older and there’s few people left to take care of the local vegetables or the countryside in general). Against all odds, the most interesting part was the fishing which we did at the very beginning. I did not expect to have fun while doing it, but I did. With a friend we even managed to catch a good few of the tiny fishes.

fot. by Evelyn Tan

But all the other parts of the trip were purely educational and not so interesting, at least not in the long run – how often can you hear that X (an animal or a plant) is endangered/extinct, so we’re trying to prevent its extinction/improve the environment for all living things, before you get bored? Nevertheless I am happy for being able to see Japanese countryside (I hope to go back again coz I’d really love to take some more pictures to better tell you all that I have observed about it and explain the contrasts) and for having such a good time. A good deal of that was thanks to, yes, you got it, a nomikat at the hotel which lastet until one of the neighbours came to quiet us.
And in order to nicely round off the trip part, I shall finish it with some Engrish found on the packs of ice.

So tempted to make a cute gif with a techno ice cube!

Allow me to remain relatively quiet about Sunday, its memory is still too fresh and traumatic to my mind. Suffice to say that someone, whom I suspect of having way too much spare time, had a brilliant idea that all the Nikken students get up early in the morning and… clean the street leading to the campus. Not all students, not even all exchange students – just the nineteen of us, who have a busy schedule as it is already. I’ve no clue if that was supposed to be some weird way of experiencing the Japanese culture or what, personally I hoped until the very last minute that the whole thing will get cancelled due to bad weather, but no, so we cleaned the Japanese streets in rain. And let’s not forget to add that said streets are clean anyway – seven cigarette stubs and an absolutely random and surprising pair of wellies somewhere in the bushes do not make the street dirty nor full of rubbish.
To sweeten this horrible experience a little bit I drank the rest of my green apple Fanta that I bought the day before.


To make it more interesting, though in English it says green apple, in Japanese they’re… blue. The Japanese equivalent of green is midori, , but it rewers more to greenery and plants than to colour – hence green apples are blue, that is aoi, 青い, as well as the green traffic light. Elementary!

And what did it taste like? Hmm, I’m still not sure whether I liked it or not. It smelled a lot like an apple scented shampoo or shower gel, in that kind of obviously artificial apple smell… and didn’t taste that much different. Or actually, no, it tasted more as if this artificial apple flavour was mixed with a lot of sugar and then had fizz added to it. As I said, I’m unsure how I feel about it, I thought about it right until I finished the bottle. Though I probably won’t buy another one.

Kenrokuen and the Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Traditional Arts and Crafts

Monday 14 October 2013 0 comments

WARNING! This post is heavily packed with pictures and thus may take a while to load. Apologies for any inconvenience.


Taking the opportunity which was a day off (due to Sports Day, so happy for such national holidays), I finally went to Kenrokuen (兼六園), a very well-known park in Kanazawa. I was hoping to see the famous tying up the branches of karasakinomatsu pines, which you can see, for example, on the video linked at the bottom of right-hand menu here, but unfortunately it was still too early for that. But I’ll return there to see it myself, there’s time for everything.
Since nothing blossoms at this time of year and autumn hasn’t changed the colour of the leaves, the park was mainly green, I am still enchanted by it though. Originally the park was an outer garden of the castle (one is separated from the other only by a brigge going over a street, and I guess back then it could’ve been a moat) and for good couple of hundreds of years it’s been going over various changes: once it was burned down in a fire and had to be restored, sometimes the lords were adding stuff to it (Takezawa Villa, Tatsumi Water System), but said stuff then had various things happen to it (the water system remained, but the villa was destroyed because another lord wanted a pond in its place), until finally in 1874 the garden was opened to the public and became a park.
I’ll stop the history talk here, time for pictures. I am sorry for the quality of the last few, just as I was finishing my trip round battery in my camera died (and I have a chargeable camera, so I can’t just buy new batteries and stick them in), so I took them with my mobile camera.

You can tell that Kenrokuen isn't the youngest of parks, can't you?


Part of the aforementioned water system.



I was absolutely enchanted by the tree support pillar-things!







A pagoda built as a tribute to one of Kyoto's castles.




Statue of prince Yamato Takeru.



The only flower in bloom I found.

The plum grove.

The plum grove.



One of the many tea houses (the ones where you may encounter a geisha, not the ones where you can drink tea).

Hisakigoike Pond

Hisakigoike Pond and Kaisekito Pagoda.

Yugaotei, the oldest building on Kenrokuen's grounds.


At the very end of this trip I decided to try ice cream which was covered with… gold leaf! Kanazawa is renowned for its gold leaf art and craft (Kanazawa literally means “gold marshes” – not the most attractive, I agree, but at least its adequate) and every shop has some gold leaf souvenirs or even small jars/boxes with loose gold leaf.
I’ll be honest, I expected something completely different. Sure enough, I had plenty of gold leaf on my ice cream, but it’s either completely tasteless, or has such a subtle flavour that it was drowned by the vanilla ice cream flavour. Adding the price to that equation (Y500, the most expensive one from all the ice cream on offer), it wasn’t really worth it for the culinary experience, but in order to be able to say that one has eaten gold – priceless!

Who will forbid a poor student to live lavishly?


Now let’s go back in time a little, as I visited the Ishikawa Prefectural Museum of Traditional Arts and Crafts about half-way through my trip round the park (the museum is on the park’s grounds, though there is an outside entrance). I definitely wasn’t planning on going there, not today, I was thinking of going some other time, but once I got to the entrance I thought that I’m not in a hurry, and that even though Kenrokuen is big it’d be weird to see just one thing that day. So I entered. And I left in awe.

Special Exhibition

Next to each exposition was a short profile of its kreator and a big board with paper where you could leave comments. I assume that they then go straight to the creators of this amazing pottery, or at least I hope so – all the compliments and all the praise there was definitely earned.






My absolute favourite. Seems so simple, and yet the more I looked, the more beauty in the details I found.
















Main Exhibition

Most of the arts and crafts on the main exhibition hall  is marked as “governmental/prefectural designated”. And, in my opinion, that’s awesome, there definitely is a lot to take care of! I was stopping and taking pictures at almost every display, and I haven’t closed my mouth probably until I left the museum.

Kaga embroidery

Kaga Yūzen, traditional silk dyeing

Suzu pottery (unglazed)

Kanazawa Urushi Lacquer Ware

An example of Eiraku style porcelain decorating.

More lacquer ware

Inlay demon

Inlay tableware

Kanazawa gold leaf

Kanazawa scroll mounts

Traditional Japanese paper, washi (和紙)

Kaga lanterns

Kaga Lion Dance Mask

Details on the Mikawa Buddhist Altar

Details on the Mikawa Buddhist Altar

Ladies, before you sigh in awe - this is NOT jewellery...

... it's something more for the Gents...

... Kaga's decorative fishing flies bait!

Kanazawa traditional local toys

Mizuhiki (水引), paper wire

Mizuhiki (水引)

Kanazawa Japanese umbrella


From right to left: all stages of Kaga Yūzen silk dyeing.

Stage 1

Stage 2

Stage 3

Stage 4, final product

Blue Kutani (九谷) porcelain

Red Kutani (九谷) porcelain

Red Kutani (九谷) porcelain

Red Kutani (九谷) porcelain

Red Kutani (九谷) porcelain

Red Kutani (九谷) porcelain

Blue Kutani (九谷) porcelain

Blue Kutani (九谷) porcelain

Left to right and top to bottom: all stages of doing lacquer ware

Final lacquer ware product

A few boxes like that were scattered around the museum shop.

This gentleman was doing a live carving of a lion mask.

 
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